VIET NAM REVISITED
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| Veterans For Piece Tour 2013 Click here for more Tour photos and in-country activities |
Everyone has their story;
it is unique only to them. It is the combination of many experiences that make them
who they are today and what they will be tomorrow. I traveled recently with a
group of thirteen Americans to Viet Nam on a journey organized by Veterans for
Peace, Chapter 160; some of the group was returning and some were visiting for
the first time. There were teachers, writers, a lawyer, nurses, wives, a flight
attendant, and veterans. We each made a $1,000 donation to be divided among
different causes in Viet Nam to be decided by us at the flight attendant for
Braniff International based out of Travis Air Force Base near Fairfield, CA. I
was given the rank of Second Lieutenant in the Air Force and flew on planes
carrying troops to Viet Nam by way of Hawaii, Guam, Philippines, Japan, and
Okinawa. We would drop them in Saigon, Da Nang, or Cam Ranh Bay stay an hour to
refuel and bring the returning troops home. On the flights over the GIs’ would
be full of themselves and ready to kick butt. But the return was a quiet end of
our journey. We each had our reasons for going and we each had life changing
experiences that will remain with us. I was going for a very selfish reason. My
husband had died on April 19, 2012, and I would be in Viet Nam on this one year
anniversary of his death accomplishing something good in his name. This is my
story.
In 1966-67 I was a flight
attendant for Braniff International based out of Travis AFB, near Fairfield, Ca.
I was given the rank of Second Lieutenant in the Air Force and flew on planes carrying
troops to Viet Nam by way of Hawaii, Guam, Philippines, Japan, and Okinawa. We
would drop them in Saigon, Da Nang, or Cam Ranh Bay stay an hour to refuel and
bring the returning troops home. On the flights over the GIs’ would be full of
themselves and ready to kick butt. But the return was quiet.My
guess; they just couldn’t believe they were really going home. Little did I
realize this airplane was the start of a nightmare for these young men and
women and that I was part of it?
The Viet Nam war was the
loss of innocence. I thought as so many others did that I was doing a service
for my country by volunteering to move to California and fly troops overseas. I
was shielded by the horrors of war because I never stayed in Viet Nam, and I
never brought the wounded home. I was only guaranteed 72 hours off between
trips in the United States so scheduling would keep us out of the country
flying. I never watched the news on TV in English, there was no CNN at the
time, so I was unaware of the protests against the war. On the return flight
the soldiers were so happy to see a round eye they treated us as goddesses. The
flight crews were having a blast, seeing exotic places, eating strange foods,
and partying like crazy. This moment in time is when I learned to drink
alcohol, discovered birth control pills, but it was also the start of a new
belief system that has stayed with me and has guided my life. No longer did I
believe that you had to be baptized or be a Christian to go to heaven. I
witnessed in these strange countries other religions just as holy as the
religions in the United States so I became more tolerant of others and their
belief systems and to treat others with respect and honor. Later in life I was
lucky enough to find a partner that shared my beliefs and we spent the last
fifteen years trying to make a difference in our community. When the trip to
Viet Nam with Veterans for Peace presented me with an opportunity to make a
difference for this country I could not wait to go and with the hope of a new
direction in my life.
Upon arriving in Hanoi we
had the pleasure of meeting our hosts, members of Veterans for Peace Chapter
160, Chuck Searcy, Don Blackburn, Manus Campbell, and later during the trip
Chuck Palazzo and Mike Cull would join us. These men have chosen to return to
Viet Nam and have dedicated their lives to working with victims of Agent Orange
and unexploded ordnance (UXO). All of us though would consider our hero to be
the incredible tour guide Truc who kept us on track, kept our luggage from
being lost, and rescuing us from what could have been disasters. The code word
in crossing a street was “Safety in Numbers.” When we stepped off the plane it
became a whirl wind of action with every moment and meal planned and eaten. Our
first stop was a quick shower at the hotel and then three meetings; one right
after the other.
We presented our
credentials to VAVN, Veterans Association of Viet Nam, second former Ambassador
to the US, Nguyen Tam Chien and Bui Van Nghi representing Vietnam Union of
Friendship Organization, our third meeting was at the American Embassy with
Ambassador Shear. Chuck Searcy was our representative at these meetings and
most of the other meetings on the trip. I cannot state how special I felt to be
a part of this group of people. It was requested at these meetings that we be
allowed to witness the cleanup of Agent Orange at Da Nang Airport which was
eventually granted.
In Hanoi I was touched by
the courage shown at the Vietnamese Women’s Museum where women are honored for
their commitment to their country. I was humbled by the simple life of Ho Chi
Minh and his dream for freedom for his country, enlightened and stressed by
learning the horrors of Agent Orange. We spent an afternoon visiting Friendship
Village, envisioned and founded by the late Viet Nam veteran George Mizo and
now supported by former veterans and several countries. I met Mr. Long who is
the size of an eight-year-old who teaches computer skills to students suffering
from Agent Orange. We visited class-rooms where they were teaching children and
adults’ subjects to survive and support themselves in their world with their
many disabilities. You wanted to hold and comfort each one as your heart was
breaking knowing that our government dropped this horrible poison causing such
grief. From 1961 to 1971 80 million liters of toxic chemicals such as Agent
Orange containing Dioxin was sprayed on the jungles of Vietnam causing
unprecedented disaster to humans and nature. It is now in its fourth generation
of causing birth defects.
I was honored to witness
the veterans of both sides of this war meet each other for the first time with
no malice or anger. I watched a North Vietnamese veteran take one of his
medals’ off, prick his finger, place a drop of blood on Chuck Searcy’s shirt
and then he pinned it on Chuck and shook his hand. They looked each other in
the eye with only goodwill. This was the beginning when I felt a shift in the
atmosphere and a sense the nightmares were just beginning to fade as each of us
were confronting the past.
We flew out of Hanoi and
took an airplane to Da Nang. Forty-five years does make a difference since I
was there, a modern airport with a lobby and jet ways, but off in the distance
you could still see the Quonset huts where we landed years ago. Da Nang
Airport, Bien Hoa, and Phu Cat have been identified as hot spots for Agent
Orange. When an aircraft would take off with their load of Agent Orange, spray
their target, and then it would return dumping any excess into the lakes and
fields that were surrounding the airport. The locals would eat the fish and
animals that lived in the areas changing their DNA, producing children which
would be born with birth defects. According to the LA Times May of 2013,
the government has now said all military on the ground in Viet Nam may be
affected by Agent Orange. USAID from the American People and Viet Nam are
spending over $80,000,000 to clean up the land surrounding this airport. They
are building a giant oven pyramid to cook the contaminated earth which will
then be safe to use in construction projects, but will not have the nutrients
to grow food.
While in this area we
visited the towns of Hue, Dong Ha, DMZ area, Quang Tri, A Luoi, Hoi An, tunnels
of Vinh Moc, and the cemetery Truong Son National Cemetery. We met with many
incredible organizations Hearts for Hue, Project Renew, VAVA, and DAVA. All are
doing work that is so important such as micro financing of cat fish, cattle,
pigs, mushrooms farms and furniture factory helping victims of Agent Orange and
unexploded ordnances. After the war, Viet Nam has: 600,000 tons of bombs left
behind, 6.6 million hectors of land area contaminated with bombs and
explosives, 9,284 communes polluted by bombs and explosives. People killed and
wounded by bombs or explosives from 1975 – 2002: 42,135 people killed and
62,143 people wounded. Imagine my pleasant surprise when I discovered I knew
the couple from Palm Springs, CA who sponsored the Mine Action Visitor Center
in the middle of the jungle at Quang Tri, Steve Nichols and Sally Benson. This
center helps to educate the children and locals on what not to touch or play
with while out in the fields. We were able to join a retired colonel from
Project Renew as his team searched for ordnances with plans to return the land
to the community, free of explosives in order to farm.
As we traveled in some
areas, our veterans who were with us faced their return to old battle grounds;
you could feel the emotions that they were going through. We returned to a
bridge that Chris Jamison had fought to guard, an airfield where Mike Kerber
was based, and shared with them their amazement at the return of civilization.
You felt their relief as we saw the greenery of the jungle and communities
happy with their lives. Once again you had a sense of old nightmares beginning
to fade.
During this period of time
we had Drew Brown and his companion join us. We hit the jack pot; Drew just
arrived from Afghanistan, being a war correspondent since we invaded Iraq and
Afghanistan, he shared with us his experiences and his knowledge of today’s war
and the question was - is it still the same? Yes, we are leaving
explosive ordnances in these countries also affecting the future of these
countries and their citizens.
We land at Cam Ranh Bay on
April 28th and it is
still as beautiful as I remembered. We take a short ride into Nha Trang where
we are guests of Mike Hull and Don Blackburn as this is where they live and
teach. Nha Trang is being groomed to be the paradise resort for Russia. Signs
are printed in Vietnamese and the Russian for the future tourists. The march of
the resorts buying up the beaches from the north to the south of Viet Nam
barring the locals from their own natural resources is the same all over the
world – follow the money and it is always King.
We have not forgotten our
purpose and have once again presented our credentials to VAVA and the Vietnam
Advanced Education Center. As their guests we visited a family with two sisters
with dire disabilities of Agent Orange. They were born normal but by the age of
12 their bones began to crumble; being unable to support their own torso they
crawl everywhere they need to go. The sad part is in their 30’s they have the
same dreams of any normal young women, writing their hopes in dairies caught in
bodies broken by Agent Orange.
Our journey is coming to a
close as we fly into Saigon the airport I flew into so many times with so many
young soldiers. I loved Saigon it is still the Paris of the Orient – lovely. We
attended the War Remnants Museum where nightmares are stored. This museum is
not for the fainthearted as it houses displays of prisons, weapons and
photographs from both the French and the American Wars. I am happy we started
in Hanoi first and witnessed the healing of this country as we made our way
south leaving the memories to the past for I am filled with shame for what we
did to this country in the name of power. I am amazed that they welcome us to
their country with forgiveness.
I have never met Mother Teresa
but I met my Mother Teresa; Dr. Nguyen Thi Phuong Tan and her assistant Dr. Ta
Thi Chung of Tu Du Hospital. The hospital will deliver 60,000 babies this year
and 500 will be affected by Agent Orange which may or may not leave the
hospital because of many reasons – resources, family, or money. I could feel
her holiness of her gifts to her people and the children just by being in her
presence. She gave up her life in California as a doctor to return to Saigon to
take care of women and children affected by Agent Orange. We visited these
young children and adults locked in the world of pain and problems we cannot
imagine. I was speechless but I was also crying. I went to Dr. Tan and held her
in my arms and thanked her for giving her life to caring for these babies. She
is my saint and I will never forget her.
Heroes come in all sizes
and all colors but the veterans in Viet Nam who are dedicating their lives
making amends for the crimes of this country are giants and the other twelve on
this trip are all my heroes. It was a rough ride but we made it home with hopes
to make a difference in the lives of the people we encountered. I salute
each and every one of you, thank you for being part of my journey and part of
my story. Special thanks go to Nadya Williams for organizing this trip; for
without her skills I don’t think it would have happened, and thanks goes to the
giving heart of Chuck Hodges for giving me the means to following our dreams.
For more on VFP activites and projects in Vietnam:
Veterans For Peace in Vietnam
Hoa Binh Vietnam, VFP Chapter 160
www.VetSpeak.org
For more on VFP activites and projects in Vietnam:
Veterans For Peace in Vietnam
Hoa Binh Vietnam, VFP Chapter 160
www.VetSpeak.org
